Few countries indeed beside India have such a rich diversity and an unbroken heritage of jewelry design and techniques. The sub-continent is a region of historic trade routes, tribal cultures and vast empires, and currently a huge federation composed of 29 states and 7 union territories, mainly linguistically and ethnically based, with over a billion […]
Few countries indeed beside India have such a rich diversity and an unbroken heritage of jewelry design and techniques. The sub-continent is a region of historic trade routes, tribal cultures and vast empires, and currently a huge federation composed of 29 states and 7 union territories, mainly linguistically and ethnically based, with over a billion inhabitants. The precious legacy of jewelry reflects the heterogeneity of this sub-continent with its casts, tribes, peasantry and island people. In effect, it is not always possible to classify ornaments by geographical or communal grouping as they tend to conform with what is worn by people of similar classes, religion or occupations.
By custom, brides receive a dowry whose composition and value depend upon economic circumstances. In many communities traditional ornaments are obligatory. Rural ornament tradition uses mainly base metals and silver. Peasants for example save up a few rupees in a prosperous year, and have them turned by the village silversmith into ornaments to put aside until money is required. It may be for the purchase of bullocks or for a wedding or to feed the family in days of scarcity. Religion/ Belief remains the major motivation for wearing ornaments: from a simple amulet to appease a spirit to a complex granulated bracelet. The religious diversity gives the traditional Indian jewelry highly evolved semiotic symbolism.
The local environment has always been an important source of decorative motifs (seeds, cloves of garlic, flowers/ jasmine buds). Many forms and designs remained unchanged for generations. It is interesting to note that jewelry was crafted not just for humans but also for the gods, ceremonial elephants and horses. Distinctive traditional craft techniques reflect ethnic regional and tribal diversity. Decorative processes include ‘thewa’ work, special filigree, granulation and other delicate but time-consuming jewelry work.
The ornaments on sale have been hand made with simple tools. They demonstrate the ingenuity of the skilled traditional jeweler, who generally remains anonymous. The BIS ( Bureau of Indian Standards) hallmarking system for silver was adopted in 2005, but it is not mandatory. The catalog covers mainly tribal ornaments: the Bhils, Rabari and Lambadi tribes are among them. In nearly all tribal cultures certain forms and designs of ornaments resemble each other. Only a few ornaments, silently and at a glance, give away an individual’s group identity.
The Bhils count 17 million and are the most widely distributed tribal group in India They can be divided into two main groups : the central or pure Bhills and the eastern or Rajput Bhils. The central Bhils are found in the mountain regions in the Indian states of Madhya Pradesh, Maharashtra, Gujarat and Rajasthan.. Contemporary Bhil communities are located in isolated, relatively infertile areas, where farming is difficult and conditions poor. They give much importance to dance and music. Ornaments with little balls ‘chandi ke gajre ka guchchha’ are favourite and are placed on bangles, bracelets, necklaces, pendants, earrings, belts and anklets.
The Rabari /Rewari /Desai – with Persian physiognomy – are a tribal caste of nomadic cattle and camel herders that live throughout northwest India, primarily in the states of Gujarat, Punjab and Rajasthan. Other Rabari groups are found in Pakistan, especially in the region of the Sindh Desert. Women favor dark natural dyed colors & embroidery and have well decorated arms.
The Lambadis /Banjaras are a large picturesque tribe found in North Gujarat, Rajasthan, Andhra Pradesh, Maharashtra and Karnataka state with no less than 1.1 million Lambadi people. They are tall, fair complexioned, have aquiline noses and classical Nordic features. Good agriculturist and excellent cattle breeders. Lambadi women wear a multitude of often heavy ornaments and beautifully coloured garments decorated with pieces of stone, cowries and bits of mirror glass famously known as “lepo” embroidery.
ORNAMENTS ON SALE : to view more pictures of the ornaments click my E-bay shop
Pair of anklets/bracelets/India/Rajasthan This plain silver pair is a nice specimen of traditional design Gujarat/Rajashan The ornaments are hollow, without any engraving. The smooth silver work around the claps attest good craftsmanship. The bracelets open by a one quarter-hinged part with screw.Silver 900/1000 assayed. The pair has not been polished to preserve patina. ∅ inner 6cm ∅ outer 9 cm H2,2 cm W284g Similar sample p175 in A World of Bracelets. Price €450 ANTIQUE ETHNIC SILVER ANKLET PAIR INDIA GUJARAT plain
Pair of anklets/bracelets/India/Rajasthan Nice silver specimen of traditional design Gujarat/Rajashan.The plain ornaments are hollow and have fine silver work towards the closing parts. The bracelets open by a one quarter-hinged part with screw. Unfortunately one bud on the screw is broken, but can be easily be restored. Silver 900/1000 assayed. Ornaments have not been polished to preserve the patina. ∅ inner 5.5 cm ∅ outer 8cm H1.5cm W140g Similar sample p175 in A World of Bracelets. Price € 250 ANTIQUE ETHNIC SILVER ANKLET PAIR INDIA GUJARAT plain2
This very old silver anklet is in sturdy condition with lovely patina. The front shows skillful engravings. The ornament opens by a one quarter-hinged part. The pin is unavailable but the bracelet can easily be opened by pulling the rectangular buckle and close it.Silver 900/1000 acid tested. Ornament has not been polished to preserve the patina. ∅ inner5.5 cm ∅ outer 7.5cm H1.5cmW83g Similar sample p175 in A World of Bracelets.Price € 100 ANTIQUE ETHNIC SILVER BRACELET ANKLET INDIA RAJASTAN
Pair of ankletsIndia/Rajasthan/Bhil tribe These hollow anklets are attached with stamped sheet simulated gajre (hollow balls) and open one quarter-hinged part by screw ; high silver alloy and very nice patina. Silver 900/1000 acid tested. Ornaments have not been polished to preserve the patina. ∅ inner 6.5cm ∅ outer 10.5cm H 2.5cm W355g Similar sample p195 A World of Bracelets p272 Traditional jewelry of India. Price €450
Pair of ankletsIndia/Rajasthan/Bhil tribe Ornaments with little balls ‘chandi ke gajre ka guchchha’ are favourite among the Bhil people and are placed on bangles, bracelets, necklaces, pendants, earrings, belts and anklets.This intriguing pair ‘naugari’ is ornamented with four projections of simulated hollow balls -gajre- made from stamped silver sheets. They are easily to be opened by one quarter-hinged part with screw. Silver 900/1000 acid tested. Ornaments have not been polished to preserve the patina.∅ inner 5.5cm ∅ outer 11cm H 2cm W135 g Similar sample p194 A World of Bracelets,p255 Traditional jewelry of India. Price €500
Pair of ankletsIndia/Rajasthan/Bhil /Rabari tribeThis silver antique bracelet is ornamented with bunched balls (gajre)rigidly fixed to the main body by threading a wire through their attached integral loops. This work is called ‘ moti ke gajre kam’ ; the effect of bunching is called guchchedar. The removable pin opens one hinge. The ornament with it’s patina is a unique collector’s item. Silver 900/1000. Bracelet has not been polished to preserve the patina.∅ inner 6cm ∅ outer10.5 cm H 2cm W 220g Similar sample p254 Traditional jewelry of India. Price € 500 ANTIQUE ETHNIC SILVER BRACELET INDIA RAJASTHAN GUJARAT RABARI BHIL 6 gajre
Bracelet India/Rajasthan/Punjab. Authentic gajre bracelet with flexible strung; each unit with its own integral loop is fixed by threading a wire through the attached loops of all the silver balls – gajre -. Opens by hinge at the claps parts of simulated hollow balls made of a stamped sheet of silver.Silver 900/1000 Bracelet has not been polished to preserve the patina.∅ inner 6cm ∅ outer 7.5cm H 3cm W 125g Similar sample p 199 A World of Bracelets. Price € 150
Authentic gajre bracelet with flexible strung; each unit with its own integral loop is fixed by threading a wire through the attached loops of all the silver balls – gajre -. Opens by hinge at the claps parts of simulated hollow balls made of a stamped sheet of silver ∅ inner 4.5cm ∅ outer 6 cm H3 cm W125 g Similar sample p 199 A World of Bracelets. Price € 150
Pair of anklets India/Rajasthan/ Madhya Pradesh- Malwa These ‘naugaris’ are also worn as bracelets. The hollow ornaments are cut from a flat piece of silver then folded over in a twisted way and open by screw – one quarter-hinged part . The pair has not been polished to preserve the patina Silver 900/1000 assayed. ∅ inner 6cm ∅ outer 9cm H 2 cm W154g Similar sample p166 A World of Bracelets plate 33 Indian Jewelry ; Price €160
Anklet/bracelet India/Rajasthan-Bhil / Madhya Pradesh Bracelet aligned with a simulated ball ‘gajre’ silver plate sheet towards the . ornamented clasp with flower motives. The anklet has an intriguing pin to open the one quarter-hinged part and nice patina.Bracelet has not been polished to preserve the patina∅ inner 5.5cm ∅ outer 7.5cm H 3cm W 107g Similar sample p174/204 A World of Bracelets Price €150
Pair of anklets India ‘Paizeb’: reputed and wanted silver pair of flexible anklets with toggle pin and delicate fringes of tiny hollow balls and lotus buds that jingle while walking. Silver 900/1000 The pair has not been polished to preserve the patina ∅ inner7 cm ∅ outer 14cm W425 g Similar pair p 275Traditional Jewellry of India and p85 A World of Bracelets. Price €600 ANTIQUE SILVER ETHNIC ANKLET PAIR INDIA PAIZEB
Bracelet India / Madhya Pradesh. A solid silver bracelet with varying sizes of dots around the ornament : showing excellent craftsmanship . The gracious ornament has nice patina. It gives sufficient way to adjust or to slip over the wrist and flip back into shape.Silver 900/1000. The ornament has not been polished to preserve the patina.∅ 7cm H 3cm W83 Similar pair: p 183 A World of Bracelets. Price €250
Bracelet/armlet India/Rajasthan / Madhya Pradesh . This silver curved ‘vauk’ is made from thick wire, drawn down to form a coiling snake around the upper arm. The ends are covered and finished by a leave shaped silver sheet. With a little flex it can be worn as bracelet or armlet.. Silver 900/1000. The ornament has not been polished to preserve patina.∅ 7cm H3 cm W 110 g Similar sample p.189 A World of Bracelets. Price € 250
Bracelet/armlet India/ central -Bhil people. Traditional silver ‘vauk’, ending in a cone. The silver rods have been twisted in such manner to suit the circumference of the upper arm ; with a little flex it can be worn as bracelet or armlet. The ornament has excellent patina.Silver 900/1000. The ornament has not been polished to preserve the patina. ∅ 6.5cm H 9cm W118 g Similar sample p.198 A World of Bracelets. Price € 250
Bracelet India/Orissa-Kondhs This hollow tube bracelet has nice patina with some tear&wear traces The pin-lock is graciously decorated with a lotus flower and on the screw hinge with a lotus butt. The ornament has not been polished to preserve patinaSilver 900/1000 ∅ 7cm W 66 g Similar pair p 188 A World of Bracelets. Price € 200
Bracelet India/Rajasthan This upper arm ‘bazuband’ was made by a sheet flanked by two drawn chased tubes. Ends brought together by easy adjustable strung of black thread. The bracelet is of low silver alloy ∅ 6 cm H4cm W 66 g Similar sample p. 203 A World of Bracelets. Price € 40
India/Gujarat-Kutch An exquisite crescent-shaped silver bracelet with bud pommels flanked by engravings of modest leaves and has nice patina.The ornament has not been polished to preserve patina.Silver 900/1000.∅ 5 x6 cm H1.5 cm W77 g Similar sample p. 204 A World of Bracelets. Price €150
Bracelet India/Gujarat A crescent bracelet decorated with silver twisted wire ending at the pommels . This high silver ornament is well- worn , has nice patina, owners name engraved at the back . Silver 900/1000. The ornament has not been polished to preserve patina. ∅ 5 x6 cm H1.5 cm W77 g Similar sample p. 205 A World of Bracelets. Price € 150
Pair of Anklets India/Rajasthan/Gujarat. Pair of a very old design , has traces of intensive use and patina. The body of these chased anklets are hollow and finished by three polyhedral pommels both with mullion motives. Silver 800+acid tested Pair has not been polished to preserve patina.∅ 5 x6 cm H1.5 cm W77 g Similar sample p.211 Traditional Jewelry of India. Price €150
Bracelet/Armlet India /Gujarat-Rabari.
A purely aesthetic high grade silver cuff of which the pattern has slightly blurred over time. Fastener by removable pin and exquisite patina. Silver 900/1000.The ornament has not been polished to preserve patina ∅5 + 6cm, H 6.5cm W143g Similar sample p. 126 Ethnic Jewellery Price € 250
Armlet/bracelet India /Gujarat-Rabari
Fine specimen of a tubular ornament with applied wirework ; nice clasp cover with removable pin. All-over smooth surface, traces of enamel and patina by intensive wearing. Silver 900/1000.The ornament has not been polished to preserve patina. Specifications: ∅5 + 6cm, H 8cm W140g Similar sample p. 126 Ethnic Jewellery. Price€250
Armlet India/ Andra Pradesh There are miscellaneous designs of this type. The central motive is flanked by three soldered bands around the body. Matches girdle I.35 with similar central motive.Silver 900/1000. The bracelet has not been polished to preserve patina.Specifications: ∅ inner7 cm ∅ outer 8cm Max H 3cm W 66g Similar sample p.188 A World of Bracelets. Price €175
Girdle/Belt / India/ Andra Pradesh
This kamarpatty or kandora ‘ is a one stranded thick braided wire with silky touch. The central unit has flexible bodies and toggle screw with hinges. The ornament is easily to be used as necklace. The long fine silver snake chain is 65 cm. The weave is of the highest standard available. End caps are skilfully finished. The fastener can be removed to open the girdle . Silver 900/1000 and has not been polished to preserve patina To make the ornament more exclusive it can be matched with armlet 34 Specifications: L 79cm max H 3.5cm W 240gr. Similar sample p245 Traditional Jewelry of India. Price € 500
Girdle/Belt /Necklace India/ Andra Pradesh.
This kamarpatty or kandora ‘has floral decorated bands that keep the wires together. The central unit is a flexible body with a toggle screw and hingesThe smooth fine silver snake chainsshow excellent craftsmanship. Silver 900/1000 and has not been polished to preserve patina Specifications: L 77cm and maxH 5cm W147 gr. Similar sample p245 Traditional Jewelry of India. Price € 400
Pair of bracelets. India/Lakshadweep islands
Most of the island’s population are descendants of migrants and ethnically similar to the Malayali people living in coastal Kerala. This stunning pair has nice patina and is an incredible collector’s item. Silver 900/1000 The pair has not been polished to preserve patina Specifications: ∅ 4.5 x 5.5 cm, H 1.5 cm, W 97 g. Similar sample: p 209 A World of Bracelets. Price €600 ANTIQUE SILVER ETHNIC BRACELETS PAIR INDIA LAKSHADWEEP ISLANDS
Pair of bracelets. India/Odisha/Bhil This old superb solid silver bracelet pair was worn by the Bhil women in the state of Odisha. The ornaments are modestly engraved with a polyhedral shaped central medallion. Silver 900/1000 assayed. Ornaments have not been polished to preserve patina. Specifications: ∅ outer 7.5cm H1.3cm W 119g Similar sample p.204 -5 A World of Bracelets. Price €250 ANTIQUE ETHNIC SOLID SILVER BRACELET PAIR INDIA ODISHA BHIL
Bracelet India/Odisha/Bhil This old solid silver bracelet worn by the Bhil women in the state of Odisha is a splendid variation of tribal bracelets. The central medallion has a flower motive flanked by unpretentious engravings. Silver 900/1000 assayed ∅ outer 7.5cm.H1.5cm W70g Similar sample p.204-5 A World of Bracelets Price € 200 ANTIQUE ETHNIC SOLID SILVER BRACELET INDIA ODISHA BHIL