Turkmenistan, till 1991 part of the Soviet Union, has been at the crossroads of civilizations for centuries and visited by many travelers of the legendary Silk Route. In the Arab world there is no great jewelry collection that can be compared with those of the Turkoman region. These have been preserved and eagerly sought by collectors.
Turkmenistan has approximately 30 tribes. The Teke, Yomut, and Ersari tribes are the largest of these, and they account for the majority of the Turkmen population.
The tribal groups of north east Iran and adjacent Turkmenistan and north Afghanistan have distinctive jewelry. Turkmen women were adorned with heavy silver jewelry, often studded with cornelian and turquoise: an indication of wealth and status in the community, but also of talismanic value. Traditionally a woman acquired her jewelry through her family and at her wedding as part of her dowry. They are often magnificent ornaments. Cornelian stones set in silver mounts are widely used and are believed to protect against miscarriages.
Local variations in adornment persist among Turkoman groups. Thus, unlike the Tekke people, the Ersari favor silver which is not gilded, ornaments which are free of filigree and rarely a cornelian.
The Turkmen jeweler traveled between camps of nomadic tribes and worked in a narrow range of materials. A sheet of silver/metal was hammered into shape and inlaid with gilded silver in foliate and scroll motifs which contrasted with the chunky relief of cornelians set in plain raised mounts. The cuff bracelet openings are always aligned with a series of dentated, projecting cast prongs. The techniques of drawing out silver wire, soldering and granulation were also employed (Etnic Jewellery p.59).Specialized skills like chasing, gilding and engraving was done by different artisans.
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Pair of bracelets (bilezik) Turkmenistan/Tekke tribe. This classic qasli bilezik pair has 2 bands of fire gilded silver and each 6 cornelians with applied silver wirework. The pair is double walled, but flexible enough to fit over any wrist.The pair has not been polished, to preserve patina: ∅ 6cm H 7cm and W296g Similar sample p 150/1 World of Bracelets, p102 Ethnic jewellery, p123 the Splendour of Ethnic Jewelry Price € 350
Pair of bracelets (bilezik) Turkmenistan/Tekke tribe This classic qasli bilezik pair is made of a single band and Double walled pair cuffs. Each ornament is enriched with 3 cornelians in a band made from fire gilded silver. Rare quality and may be dated as early as 19th century . Cuffs are flexible enough to fit over any wrist ∅ 5.5cm H 4.5 cm W235g. Similar sample p 150/1 World of Bracelets , p102 Ethnic jewellery, p123 the Splendour of Ethnic Jewelry. Price € 200
Pair of bracelets Turkmenistan/Ersari tribe/ Pakistan / Afghanistan Plain silver cuffs reflecting the typical jewery style of the Esari tribe unlike the preference of the Tekke tribe with their notorious large fire gilded ornaments and carnelian stones Flexible enough to fit over any wrist. Excellent patina , therefore not polished ,Silver +800/1000 acid tested. ∅ 6×5 cm H 8 cm W266g .Similar sample p150 World of Bracelets, p102 Ethnic jewellery, p123 Splendour of Ethnic Jewelry. Price € 450
Pair of bracelets Turkmenistan/ Olomi tribe/Afghanistan. This wanted pair has beautiful engravings , repousse silverwork and smooth patina Flexible enough to fit over any wrist. As difficult to acquire the ornaments are real collector’s items and in excellent condition. Silver +800/1000, not polished to preserve the patina. ∅ 6×4 cm H 8.5 cm W 227g Similar sample p102 Ethnic jewellery, p 150 World of Bracelets ; Price € 700
Necklace/Tumar Turkmenistan/Ersari tribe/ Pakistan/ Afghanistan Exquisite antique ‘tumar’ with silver chain. A Tumar is a combination of a triangle and a cylinder-shaped amulet case. Sometimes stored with a text and sealed The elegant shape and its lines reflects the Ersari style contrary to the Tekke one with its notorious large fire gilded ornaments Comes with sterling silver chain of 30 cm length each side. Ornament has not been polished to preserve patina, Tumar ∅12×10 cm total W 114g. Similar sample p 86/87 Ethnic jewellery ; Price € 400
Necklace/Tumar Turkmenistan/Tekke tribe Authentic breast ornament with Tumar . A Tumar is a combination of a triangle and a cylinder-shaped amulet case. Sometimes stored with a text and sealed. This wonderful ‘tumar’ has eight bells. Instead of cornelians probably two red-orange glass stones were mounted . Ornament has not been polished to preserve patina. Ethnic jewellery Chains : L each 32 cm Tumar : ∅7×13 cm Dangling elements: L 5cm W157 g. Similar sample p 86/87 Price € 400
Coatfastener/ tschapraz Turkmenistan /Tekke tribe. Gracious gold graded silver diamond shaped fastener with glass mounts and a hook&loop for women’s coat. Attached are nine double walled bicone spheres. The ornament has not polished to preserve the patina . ∅ 9x12cm + 9cm spheres W101 gr Similar sample p 84 Ethnic jewellery Price € 250
Coatfastener/ tschapraz Turkmenistan/Ersari tribe A superb silver fastener with 5 carnelians mounted. The ornament has 2 loops and one hook to fasten women’s coat. Attached are nine double walled bicone spheres. The ornament has not polished to preserve patina. ∅9x12cm + 7cm spheres W 49 gr Similar sample p 84 Ethnic jewellery Price € 250
Pendant Necklace Turkmenistan /Tekke tribe Large cornelian ( 2.5 cm) pendant set in a granulated mount with gilded silver and with seven oval discs fastened to the pendant .This skillfully made pendant has a 55cm long chain of fine silver snake chain . Ornament has not been polished. mid 20th century ; ∅ 7×5 cm W 75 gr Price €170
Pendant Turkmenistan/ / Ersari tribe /Pakistan /Afghanistan Collector’s pendant given by its elegance and smooth lines with its beautifully shaped cornelians. This piece of chest jewelry has seven bells on the seven spheres ( 8cm long) The blue turquois beads give protection against the evil eye. All with beautiful patina I traced the ornament in Quetta, thus it could be also Pashtun or Baluch ,one of the other ethnic groups in Turkmenistan as well. Silver +800 acid tested and ornament has not been polished to preserve patina. ∅ 9.5 x L 10 + 8cm long spheres incl bells W 97gr Price € 350
Earring/fastener Turkmenistan/Yomud tribe Traditional Yomud ornament ‘Gulak Khala’ has as basic form the circle. Nicely shaped with applique and open silverwork. The earring has been knocked around a bit but is in good condition. Specifications : ∅ 12cm W 65gr .Similar sample p 82 Ethnic jewellery Price €30